Moisturizers Explained

#sensitiveskin, #skincare, #dermatology, #dermatology, #eczema #acne

Moisturizers are an essential component of any skincare routine. Rather than an entity with a singular ingredient, moisturizers combine distinct skincare components to provide that soothing and hydration feel to your skin.

3 important components combine to form a good moisturizer.

• Emollients
• Humectants
• Occlusives

These components can also have overlapping properties, providing synergistic improvements in the skin.

Imagine a brick wall with skin cells being individual bricks ….

1. Emollients

   Akin to the cement between bricks, emollients are ingredients that fill gaps between skin cells, making skin feel smooth, soft, and supple. They help maintain and restore the skin’s barrier function. Additionally, they strengthen the skin barrier protection against environmental stressors.

   Examples of emollients:

   Natural Emollients_

   • Oils (coconut, olive, jojoba)
   • Fatty acids (ceramides, omega-3)
   • Waxes (beeswax, carnuba)

   Synthetic Emollients

   • Dimethicone
   • Cyclomethicone
   • Phenyl trimethicone
2. Humectants

   Much like limestone bricks- a unique quality of humectants is their ability to absorb and attract water. They retain moisture from the surrounding air, drawing water into the skin. They help maintain the skin’s natural moisture balance and can leave skin feeling hydrated and plump. They further reduce the appearance of fine line and wrinkles, and are calming to dry, sensitive, or irritated skin.

   Examples of humectants:

   Natural Humectants

   • Honey
   • Glycerin
   • Sorbitol
   • Xylitol

   Synthetic Humectants

   • Hyaluronic acid
   • Sodium hyaluronate
   • Panthenol
   • Betaine

   The third piece of the puzzle (or brick wall)!

3. Occlusives

   Occlusives are ingredients in skin moisturizers that work like top coats on walls. They help prevent moisture loss by forming a physical barrier on the skin’s surface. In so doing, it prevents water from evaporating (Transepidermal water loss- TEWL), keeping skin hydrated for longer.

   It also supports the skin’s barrier function and reduces irritation.

   There are different types of occlusives. Physical occlusives form a visible, physical barrier on the skin’s surface, like a film. Examples include petrolatum. Lipid occlusives help repair and restore the skin’s natural lipid barrier. A good example includes ceramides.

   Occlusives can be especially beneficial for patients looking for longer lasting hydration and protection. It is useful for dry, sensitive, or compromised skin, especially in skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis. A good occlusive is also useful for skin exposed to harsh environments.

   However, some occlusives can also leave a greasy or heavy finish, and interfere with the skin’s natural excretory processes, leading to comedogenesis or acne breakouts. In addition, certain occlusives e.g. lanolin have been known to trigger a contact reaction in sensitive individuals, leading to red, flaky and inflamed skin.

   Examples of occlusives:

   Natural Occlusives

   • Beeswax
   • Lanolin
   • Coconut oil
   • Shea butter

   Synthetic Occlusives

   • Petrolatum (Vaseline)
   • Dimethicone
   • Cyclomethicone
   • Phenyl trimethicone

   Plant-Derived Occlusives

   • Carnuba wax
   • Candelilla wax
   • Rice bran wax

In summary

• Emollients smoothen and repair the skin’s surface
• Humectants attract and retain moisture
• Occlusives retain skin moisture and reinforce the natural skin barrier
• Moisturizers combine emollients, humectants, and occlusives to provide complete hydration and protection.

Final tips

When choosing a moisturizer, consider 4 main aspects of your skin

• Skin type
• Skin concerns (e.g. acne, eczema)
• Formulation and texture on the skin
• Hypo allergenicity

By understanding the intricacies of these components, you can make informed decisions to support your skin’s unique needs and achieve healthy, radiant skin!